top of page
Top

MORTICIA SWEATER

INSTRUCTIONS FOR HORIZONTAL BUST DARTS

Every breast shape is different, even within the same cup sizes. Therefore, it is not easy to give a general bust dart for each cup that works for everyone. For this reason, you can work the horizontal bust dart in this pattern to exactly match your personal shape. How to do this will now be explained to you in detail.

​

Each cup-size contains a different number of rows, which are worked by using GSRs with double stitches. The larger the cup, the higher the number of rows to be worked. This number is indicated to you in the following instructions for each cup-size. You must now determine for yourself from which point in the row to start with the short rows and how many sts are between each turn. But don't worry, it is not as complicated as you might think right now!

How to proceed to do this will also be explained to you.

 

You will work flat across the front of the sweater. The first st after turning is always slipped purlwise wyif and distorted as described to form a double st. Always work the double sts together as 1 st.

To determine your number of sts between the double sts and turning again, proceed as follows:

 

  • Mark the center of the front with a stm

  • Each half of the front should have the same amount of sts until the cable stitch pattern starts

  • Put all the sts on a piece of yarn so that you can try on the sweater comfortably and try it on

  • Position everything so that the stm lays centered between your breasts and the sides (= cable stitch patterns) are at your underarm

  • Now mark the st that is about 2 cm | 1" to the left (for the left breast) and to the right (for the right breast) of your nipple with a new stm each

  • Match those stm so that they are both the same number of sts away from the center stm & place the sts back on your knitting needle

  • Count all the sts that are between your bust stm and the cable pattern, there should be the same number on both sides (left and right of the bust); You will use this number for the following calculation

  • This number of sts must now be divided by the number of turns for the GSRs to get the sts that are between each short row:

​

number of sts / number of turns = rounded number of sts that keep the rows apart

​

For this calculation, follow the example for your cup size, since the number of turns is different for each size.

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 21

number of turns for A = 2

 

​

Calculation:

21 / 2 = 10.5

Rounded = 10 sts

x = 10 sts

​

There are 10 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 10 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (10 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 4 GSRs, where you have turned 2x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

A-Cup & AA-Cup
- 4 rows, 2 turns on both sides | approx. + 1 cm|0.5" -

A-Cup

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 22

number of turns for B = 3

 

​

Calculation:

22 / 3 = 7.3

Rounded = 7 sts

x = 7 sts

​

There are 7 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 7 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  5.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  6.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (7 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 6 GSRs, where you have turned 3x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

B-Cup

B-Cup
- 6 rows, 3 turns on both sides | approx. + 2 cm|0.75" -

C-Cup
- 8 rows, 4 turns on both sides | approx. + 2.5 cm|1" -

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 22

number of turns for C = 4

 

​

Calculation:

22 / 4 = 5.5

Rounded = 5 sts

x = 5 sts

​

There are 5 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 5 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  5.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  6.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  7.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  8.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (5 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 8 GSRs, where you have turned 4x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

C-Cup

D-Cup
-10 rows, 5 turns on both sides | approx. + 3 cm|1.25" -

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 26

number of turns for D = 5

 

​

Calculation:

26 / 5 = 5.2

Rounded = 5 sts

x = 5 sts

​

There are 5 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 5 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  5.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  6.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  7.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  8.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  9.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  10.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (5 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 10 GSRs, where you have turned 5x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

D-Cup

E|DD-Cup
-14 rows, 7 turns on both sides | approx. + 4.5 cm|1.75" -

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 30

number of turns for E | DD = 7

 

​

Calculation:

30 / 7 = 4.2

Rounded = 4 sts

x = 4 sts

​

There are 4 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 4 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  5.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  6.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  7.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  8.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  9.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  10.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  11.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  12.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  13.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  14.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (4 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 14 GSRs, where you have turned 7x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

E-Cup
F-Cup

F-Cup
-16 rows, 8 turns on both sides| approx. + 5 cm|2" -

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 33

number of turns for F  = 8

 

​

Calculation:

33 / 8 = 4.1

Rounded = 4 sts

x = 4 sts

​

There are 4 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 4 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  5.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  6.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  7.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  8.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  9.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  10.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  11.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  12.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  13.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  14.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  15.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  16.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (4 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 16 GSRs, where you have turned 8x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

G-Cup
-18 rows, 9 turns on both sides| approx. + 6 cm|2.5" -

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 34

number of turns for G = 9

 

​

Calculation:

34 / 9 = 3.7

Rounded = 3 sts

x = 3 sts

​

There are 3 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 3 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  5.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  6.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  7.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  8.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  9.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  10.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  11.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  12.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  13.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  14.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  15.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  16.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  17.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  18.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (3 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 18 GSRs, where you have turned 9x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

G-Cup

H-Cup
-22 rows, 11 turns on both sides | approx. + 7 cm|2.75" -

Example:

​

number of sts between bust stm and side = 35

number of turns for H = 11

 

​

Calculation:

35 / 11 = 3.1

Rounded = 3 sts

x = 3 sts

​

There are 3 sts between each short row and the new turn.​

​

Using the example you would replace X  with 3 sts, to work the following GSRs:

  1.  RS: work in established rib pattern to the bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the left bust stm), turn.

  2.  WS: double st, work in established rib pattern to the other bust stm after the center stm (i.e. the right bust stm), turn.

  3.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  4.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  5.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  6.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  7.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  8.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  9.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  10.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  11.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  12.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  13.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  14.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  15.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  16.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  17.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  18.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  19.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  20.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  21.  RS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  22.  WS: double st, work until X sts after the double st of the previous round in established rib pattern, turn.

  • Work in established rib pattern until the BOR.

 

To find your value X, divide your number of sts by the number of turns needed for this cup-size. Your result is the value X (3 in the example). Replace X above with your result and work the short rows as written. In this way you get a total of 22 GSRs, where you have turned 11x. 

Then return back to where you paused in the pattern.

H-Cup
bottom of page